We agreed we could create an important distinction in formulating an effective Vitamin C serum that is natural, green and safe rather than a conventional formulation. By “green” we mean the formulation would consist of completely naturally derived ingredients without using petroleum sourced ingredients. Instead using plant-based biodegradable  or sustainable sourced raw materials from natural renewable feedstocks where possible.

The most important step in the serum formulation development process was to select the most effective form of Vitamin C as the key ingredient. There are different forms of Vitamin C for different cosmetic applications to choose from. We used an oil-soluble plant-based Vitamin C derivative, Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, because it works much more effectively when compared to other forms of natural Vitamin C currently used in serums for example Kakadu Plum and Hibiscus Extracts.

Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate is excellent for its skin penetration because of its fatty acid component. It is a safe, stabilised, clinical form of Vitamin C. We used a concentration of 9.99% as this concentration has been shown for its efficacy. It also decreases melanin formation thereby reducing pigmentation and dark spots and brightens skin. To enhance the skincare benefits of the Vitamin C, we chose an upcycled standardised aqueous extract from White Pine Bark, from conifer trees from the Canadian boreal forest. White Pine Extract has been efficacy tested and shown to improve facial skin pigmentation and improve skin brightening effects by improving skin luminosity, clarity, and translucency including fading age spots.

I suggested to Jacinta we also needed to add a preservative-free water-soluble pure grade of Hyaluronic Acid (HA) which is highly concentrated called Cross-linked HA for its immediate hydration delivery and for its skin elasticity and texture improvement properties.

After creating and testing prototype samples, Jacinta wanted the serum texture to be super lightweight, absorbent, non-pilling, non-sticky but with a creamy fluid consistency and a natural elegant silky after-feel touch. We worked on the formulation to produce a smooth absorbent light non-greasy milky fluid consistency when combined with a blend of pure plant oils of Jojoba, Borage, Meadowfoam, Rosehip Seed and Camellia Seed. These light oils were carefully chosen for their nutritional skincare benefits and extended moisturisation properties.

I am happy with the final formula for this serum.

Carol Priest
Product Formulator